INFOS

Marriages bio: who with whom?

1. Occitane + Melvita
By buying cosmetic company M&A Health Beauty, Occitane was reinforced mark with cosmetics bio Melvita. Melvita was born in 1983 in full scrubland ardéchoise. His/her founding fathers are two brothers of Bordeaux, Philippe and Bernard Chevilliat, this last being biologist of formation. Right from the start, Melvita offers natural vegetable cosmetic products (floral oils, water etc) and products of the Hive. In 1987, another company, Ardecosm, were born. Ardecosm is one of the most important soap factories of France with 4 production lines automatic. The group M & has Health Beauty chapeaute the companies Melvita and Ardecosm.
M&A Santé Beauty does not market only cosmetics bios under the Melvita mark but also under the marks Bio Excellia, Apicosma, Capiforce and Prosun. With more than 400 million euros of turnover, Occitane weighs four times heavier than M&A Santé Beauty, whose turnover is estimated at 20 million euros. However, M&A Santé Beauty is extremely invaluable thanks to its competences in natural beauty care. And for M&A Health Beauty, the international presence of Occitane is a new extremely lucrative dimension. Occitane realizes more than 80% of its turnover out of France and has 950 shops in 85 countries.

2. Monoprix + Naturalia
At the beginning of July, Monoprix decided to take again the Parisian chain of supermarkets bios Naturalia, for a sum which was not revealed. In 2007, Naturalia (38 stores, 300 collaborators) carried out a turnover of 49 million euros, including 85% thanks to the agro-alimentary one.
Naturalia was founded in 1973 by a farmer bio of the north of France. Naturalia hopes that its recovery by Monoprix will allow him a faster expansion. The objective: to pass from the current figure from 5 to 10 even 15 openings of new stores per annum. For Monoprix, whose department stores are generally with the best sites of the downtown areas, it is the know-how of Naturalia which is particularly interesting.

Cosmetics bios: suddenly, everyone wants to be part
Whereas the traditional manufacturers of natural cosmetics and bio celebrate them 20th, 25e or 40e birthday, that moves in the sector of the cosmetics. Who entered the capital of which mark? Which mark not having had up to now any relationship with the natural cosmetics does it present maintaining a range bio? After Oréal, which were reinforced with Sanoflore and The Body Shop (which is not bio), and after Yves St Laurent (YSL) who left Care de Stella McCartney, it is with the turn of Yves Rocher to make its shopping and to take 35% of the Ground capital of Oc, the partner of the Nature chain and Discovered. Nature and Discovered and its 75 collaborators reach with their 700 products a turnover of 10 million euros. Other innovations: Sephora announces a line „green Sephora “and Nuxe enters, him also, on the market of the products bios. It is astonishing to see with which point of the convictions are born sometimes suddenly. Thus the president of the laboratory Nuxe, Aliza Jabès, informs the public opinion which it is „since always impassioned by the capacity of the plants and […] wanted to use them in their original form “. The astonished reader wonders what comprised until there the „vegetable formulations “of Nuxe. In any case not of cosmetics bios, and not badly of chemistry of synthesis.
The cosmetics bios currently are very required and one knows of them more one which tries to fill its escarcelle as a practitioner of the high prices. Thus, the relaxing oil of massage of „Bio Beauté by Nuxe “costs in the 22 euros. For the Nuxe moment puts only oils on the market and, with all the respect that I owe them, this product does not require any know-how in natural beauty care. One can manufacture oneself a good oil and there are even free receipts on the market.
Of course, it is more practical to buy a very ready oil, but precisely with regard to the many new products, the question of the quality-price ratio is essential clearly.

Which difference in quality between a product of 100 ml costing 22 euros and another 8,90 euros?
A price difference of approximately 13 euros for a small oil bottle for the body, that deserves that one looks at there more closely. Other oils are even even more expensive than those of Nuxe. Oils are rather easy with „to decipher “. The examples which follow show that they generally contain a traditional repertory of basic ingredients. A great number of oils are already known because they are used for the kitchen.

Bio-beauty by Nuxe: Oil massage relaxing. 100 ml, 22 euros Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil* (sesame oil) Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil* (oil of carthame) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* (sunflower oil) Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil* (oil of andiroba) Perfume/Fragrance Tocopherol * ingredients resulting from the Organic farming
Patyka: Oil for the Biological Body, Bois de rose & Ylang. 200 ml around 22 euros. Price for 100 ml: around 11 euros Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil* (sesame oil) Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Oil* (sunflower oil) Hypericum Perforatum (St John' S wort) Oil* (oil of millepertuis) Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Oil* (essential bois de rose oil) Tocopherol *ingrédients resulting from the Organic farming
	Logona: Méditerran Sage & Apricot - oil for the body. 100 ml 8,90 euros. Price for 100 ml: around 8,90 euros Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil* (soya oil) Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil* (olive oil) Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil* (oil of apricot core) Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract* (extracted from rosemary) Salvia Officinalis (Wise) Leaf Extract* (extracted from sage) Perfume (Essential Oils) (essential oils) Tocopherol * ingredients resulting from the Organic farming
	Weleda: Oil care with the argousier. 100 ml, around 14 euros, Prix for 100 ml: around 14 euros Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (sesame oil) Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil (oil of argousier) Fragrance (Perfume) * * coming from natural essential oils

REMARKS
1. All these products contain oils of care, beneficial for the skin. As the asterisk * indicates it, these oils all come almost from the Organic farming. The same applies to sesame oil of the Weleda product, even if it is not marked of one *, because the sesame oil belongs to oils obligatorily bio in certified products BDIH.
2. In the product of Nuxe, the only oil which marking down is the oil of andiroba, which is in the 4th place of list INCI (in minor amount thus). It costs approximately 3,5 times more expensive than the oil of jojoba.
The oil of seeds of Carapa Guaianensis up to now was especially used like repulsive (natural insecticide). It is also used as denaturing agent (makes the matters cosmetic nonedible) because the seeds contain a bitter substance, the andirobine. One allots also properties to him anti-inflammatory drugs. It became a fashion to use small squirted of an exotic oil. So the many benefits of “traditional” oils of care often pass in the second plan as it is for example the case of the soya oil however rich in lecithin and in vitamin E. It makes the skin flexible, retains the hydration, calms and hardens fabrics.
3. In addition to three oils, the Logona product contains also a small addition of extracts oléosolubles.

With regard to the list of the ingredients: we left side the various components of the odorous substances, which must normally be declared separately (such as for example citral, géraniol etc). All oils contain odorous substances declared like perfume/fragrance. When these substances, - these essential oils, contain specific components, like citral or the linalool, they must be declared separately.
The great majority of oils contain also tocopherol. This vitamin E is not to regard here active agent for the skin but as agent of stabilization of conservation of the product.

Object of desire the French market of the natural cosmetics and bio
According to the Swiss service of information Cossma, the French market of the natural cosmetics especially currently attracts investors of News Zealand, Brazil, of Japan and Switzerland. Natura, the Brazilian number one of the natural cosmetics, inaugurated a new research center in Paris in which cosmetic new technologies must be developed. NP Corporation, a Japanese manufacturer in the field of the natural cosmetics and biotechnology chose Lyon for the seat of its single European subsidiary company. Welada, company Swiss of tradition wants to invest 15 million euros in three years in its subsidiary company of Huningue and to create nearly 40 new employment.
According to a market research of the adviser in OrganicMonitor company, the French market of the natural cosmetics knew an increase in the turnover of 40% in the two years space. The organization of Ecocert certification recorded for 2006 almost 3.500 recordings of natural cosmetic products in France. That represents an increase of 80% compared to 2005.

A success on a worldwide scale
The world turnover of cosmetics natural continuous to increase and it is expected that it reaches 7 billion American dollars in 2007. New searchs for Organic Monitor show that North America and Europe were the engines of this growth, generating most of the increase in the turnover of this year (1 billion Custom-Dollars)

Dangerous consequences of this madness of the beauty
Researchers of Université of San Francisco (California) made a worrying discovery: the American patients must longer await on average three times for the examination of a potentially carcinogenic beauty spot than for an operation of face lift.
In the professional newspaper „Newspaper off the American Academy off Dermatology “the doctor Resneck Jack and his colleagues speaks about their experiment. They telephoned 900 dermatologists of 12 American cities in order to obtain an appointment for an anti-wrinkle puncture or an examination of a beauty spot likely to be carcinogenic. Result: for an injection of Botox ® against the wrinkles, one on average obtained an appointment in the eight days and for the examination in cancer prevention on the other hand, approximately three weeks and half.
In this specialized newspaper, a dermatologist of San Francisco east quoted to have given figures. For the anti-wrinkle puncture the customer must advance the sum from 400 to 600 Custom-Dollars of his pocket. The control of a doubtful beauty spot is refunded by the case of health insurance. The doctor will touch for that 50 to 75 dollars and it will have to wait a certain time before being paid.