Substances at the risks
Since years, many cosmetic components are under the fire of criticism. Meanwhile, some of them were prohibited, and for others, one still fights to determine the authorized quantity. Certain toxicological appreciations of authorized cosmetic components are prone to easy ways which are very safe reassuring. One speaks for example about “safety margin” which one can obtain insofar as “the use of the substance is limited to the conservatives and where the concentration and the exposure time on the skin are limited”. Even if such an estimate is exact: why the consumer should it expose himself to dangerous substances which require a “safety margin”, and which it is necessary bitterly to fight if one wants to obtain an acceptable limitation of the quantity. Especially that there exist alternatives which do not involve - they - not the least risk or doubt. Quality, even the effectiveness of a cosmetic product, does not require to in no case the use of problematic components. The doubtful substances could, if one really wanted it, being for a long time replaced by less harmful raw materials for the environment and health. You will find below information on the cosmetic components most often used in the conventional cosmetic products. |
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Azo dyes
As regards make-up, the colors are one of the keys of the commercial success. We want them luminous without knowing that it is with the detriment of our health. The fact that the natural cosmetic products cannot really take part in the race with the new colors with the mode, and choose other ways as regards colors, is explained easily: their manufacturers give up the greatest group of dyes than are the azo dyes.
The azo pigments are synthesized. They have intense colors and appear problematic on the toxicological level. Studies prove that 25 of the dyes used in Europe can cross the skin, damage the liver and dissociate aniline. However, the dissociation of aniline is quite as problematic as the formation of nitrosamines. What means, neither more nor less, that some azo dyes are suspected of being carcinogenic. It is proven that they can especially start allergies at the people having an extreme sensitivity to aspirine (acetylsalicylic acid). With regard to the potential dangers related to aniline, the European Authority of Safety of Food (EFSA) declared the 9/9/2007: “On the basis of studies led on the animal, scientific group AFC concluded that aniline should be regarded as carcinogen. According to the new scientific evidence, it cannot be excluded that the carcinogenic potential of aniline affects the genetic material of the cells. Consequently, it is not possible to determine a rate of aniline contribution which could be regarded as sure for the man. “ | |
BHT and BHA
The BHT (Butylhydroxytoluène) and the BHA (Butylhydroxyanisole) still and are always employed like antioxydants in a whole series of lipophilic raw materials (oily), to prevent them from growing rancid. The German magazine of the consumers, Ökotest, notes with regard to the BHT and the BHA: “In the tests on the animals appeared modifications of the immune system and blood picture, the thyroid one and faith. The BHT and the BHA are fixed in human tissues and land in the fetus. They are known to be releases of allergy. ” As they can be replaced without problem by the natural antioxydant Tocophérol (vitamin E), it does not have no reason there to continue to still use them.
Organohalogen compounds
The conservatives are often halogenous substances. That means that their molecules carry some share of chlorine, bromine or iodine. When one finds halogens during the chemical analysis of a product, one tends to conclude from it that they come from conservatives of synthesis. However, the halogenous compounds also exist in nature, which does not mean however that they do not appear problematic! They have all an important allergic potential, are reactive and can while penetrating in fabrics, to break up, set and cause damage. |
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Formaldehyde formaldehyde and liberators
The formaldehyde (or formol), however classified carcinogenic substance, is still authorized as preserving in the cosmetics if its concentration does not exceed 0,2% (0,1% in the oral products). With the top of 0,05% the presence of formaldehyde must be mentioned on packing.
The formaldehyde liberators as the DMDM hydantoin are “substitutes” of formaldehyde and are a traditional example expression “to replace it the devil by Belzébuth”. Under certain conditions (such as for example a long contact with water), the formaldehyde liberators release from formaldehyde. The Professor Eberhard Heymann (High, Haare, Kosmetik, Verlag Hans Huber, Bern, 2003) qualifies the formaldehyde liberators of Trojan horses: “The substances which release from formaldehyde have an antimicrobic capacity even more extremely than formaldehydes. That probably comes owing to the fact that these substances introduce aldehyde into the cells, a such Trojan horse, whereas the free formaldehyde - him - is, because of its reactivity, destroyed in various ways before even reaching the cells. ” The formaldehyde can damage in a decisive way the function of proteins, and like any substance able to denature proteins, it is a potential danger for health.
Nitrosamines
When substances react between them to form nitrosamines, a dangerous chain and potentially carcinogen are constituted (for example this phenomenon is observed when the drippings fall on fire from the barbecue). In the cosmetic products, the nitrosamines can be formed when for example the triethanolamine and certain conservatives nitrosants are employed simultaneously. Raw materials can also be polluted by nitrosamines. It happens regularly that cosmetics are accused by monitoring services for their too high rate in nitrosamines. The Departments of health and of Food of the Land of Bavaria check for example starting from samples the possible presence of nitrosamines in cosmetic products. In 2004,20% (!) will mascaras and eyeliners were accused. Because of dangerosity of the nitrosamines, the cosmetics should not contain components being able to involve their formation. Consequently, the renouncement of the halogenous substances as preserving is a projection moreover in the consumer protection.
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Aluminum compounds of synthesis
Aluminum in the deodorants is dangerous: many are the people who retained this information and refuse produced while containing. But the oxides or hydroxides of aluminum used in natural beauty care differ to a significant degree of the substances from synthesis to the names of Chloride Aluminum or Aluminiumchlorhydrate. By stopping the pores, the complexes aluminum-chlorine and sulfates prevent the elimination of sweat. This rather aggressive phenomenon can cause inflammatory reactions and damage the glands sudoripares. |
Filters UV
The chemical solar filters react on and with the skin. This process is at the origin of considerable side effects because the function of protection results owing to the fact that the molecules absorb a certain wavelength. That is not without effects since they are modified and that can involve the formation of new molecular compounds at the height potential allergen, or causing phototoxic reactions. In 2003, Margret Schlumpf, W. Lichtensteiger and H. Frei had the results of their consequent research in their book: “Cosmetics, effects and environmental behavior of the odorous substances and the solar filters of synthesis” (Kosmetika, Wirkungen und Umweltverhalten von synthetischen Parfümstoffen und UV-Filtern, Verlag Kind und Umwelt, 2003). According to them, we are doubly exposed to filters UV: via the skin on the one hand and by the food chain on the other hand, “because these generally lipophilic compounds are fixed in fatty food, like fish or the mother's milk”. In a study of the Institute of pharmacology and toxicology of the University of Zurich, synthetic filters UV tested in laboratory reacted like estrogens. But in quantity so negligible that one cannot draw from conclusion on the danger which they could represent for health. |
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Parabenes
to see: conservation
PEG and PPG
In declaration INCI, one easily locates a group of substances to their letters PEG or PPG. These components ethoxyls are elaborate starting from polyethyleneglycol (PEG) and of polypropylèneglycol (PPG). The hydroxypropylic substances, like Hydroxypropyl Guar or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, are the simplest shape of propylene-glycol ethers. They are mainly employed like emulsifiers, but also as bases gel, like flexible substances or emollient. They can make the skin permeable and let pass the harmful substances. The PEG and PPG are manufactured starting from carcinogenic substances which can also be used to produce poison gases. Even if today, to obtain them, one works with modern processes of purification without dangerous free ethylene oxide, ethoxylation remains a hard chemical process, highly explosive, which imposes the most strict security measures.
The certified natural beauty care refuses to use éthoxylées raw materials because, to manufacture a good emulsifying, one does not need dangerous basic commodities, and even less than one tank under pressure to guarantee any safety.
Polluting cosmetic raw materials
Are the cosmetic components which do not make “that” to pollute the environment less problematic only those which are classified as being bad or dangerous for health? Not, because the consequences of environmental pollution endanger - they also - the men and the animals. The matters which are not biodégradées in the purification plants, or which land directly in nature, develop in an autonomous way. One knows practically nothing about the ways that these matters will take and the damage which they could cause. They can for example reach the man by the means of drinking water. They can also be introduced by animals, for example of fish, and be then consumed by the man via the food chain. These unforeseeable factors play a big role in the increasing mistrust which settles vis-a-vis these nonbiodegradable substances. |
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EDTA
The EDTA (Ethylene-Diamino-Tetra-Acetate) was, and still is very appreciated for its qualities of chelating agent. But the EDTA and its substitute (Editronic Acid) are fixed in the organization and are not easily biodegradable. This is explained by the interaction between the EDTA and heavy metals, the substances with hydrogenating function or the micronutriments. The EDTA is not eliminated in the purification plants and lands (with heavy metals that it fixed) in the rivers and the lakes. As the EDTA is already in the waste water (purification plants) like substance complexes containing heavy metals, there is no process of biological breakdown in the rivers. However, the complexes EDTA-iron are bio dégradables in surface water, under the action of the light. This degradation releases from the unknown substances, which could represent main risks for the environment. Moreover, as the EDTA (which can accelerate or inhibit the production of algae in water) is not retained by the activated carbon filters, it can arrive in our drinking water. Which danger represents this drinking water in charge of complexes of heavy metals and EDTA for the man? There exists very little of research on the question like besides about many other possible consequences of the pollution of the environment. The EDTA is recognizable in declaration INCI by letters EDTA, generally combined with another word, such as for example Tetrasodium EDTA. It is a scandal which the EDTA is still used whereas it would be very easy to replace it. The phytic acid obtained starting from the rice sound, for example, is a natural alternative to the EDTA.
COV
Letters COV mean Volatile Composés Organics. The pollution of the environment by the COV produced by the man strongly increased these last years, because of motor vehicle traffic, of chemical substances used in the building (paintings, adhesives), etc Some of the many COV are regarded as highly toxic and carcinogenic, others, like ethanol, are inoffensive. |
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Quats and Polyquats
The traditional quats are the CTAC (Cetyl triméthyl ammonium chloride) and the DSDMAC (Quaternium-5). All the simple quats are not biodegradable and they generally involve a light irritation of the skin. This is also true for the polyquats (Polyquaternium, follow-up of a figure). They are complex compounds having like central molecule of quaternary ammonium salts.
These polyquats is used because the polycations cling better to the surface of the hair that the simple cations. They often contain natural substances: the polyquaternium-4 or -10, for example, are two complex compounds containing of cellulose. The natural parts are degraded in general easily, contrary to the central molecule.
Quats (quaternary ammonium compounds, INCI: Quaternium, follow-up of a figure) are used as anti-static in the capillary products to prevent that the hair does not take care electrically and to facilitate the capping.
Silicones
Are silicones biodegradable or not? Do they accumulate in the environment? The experts always discuss on the question. The arguments of the defenders of silicones are not convincing. They make the point that silicones which arrive in the purification plants evaporate or cling to small particles being in water and thus land in the clarification sludge. These muds are burned, deposited, hidden or épandues in the fields.
Even if it is true that the evaporation of silicones and the combustion of the clarification sludge containing of silicones do not have consequences on the greenhouse effect, one does not know therefore the implications which could have a massive use of silicones. What do they become once in the ground? They are biodégradées that when the ground is drained. If it is durably wet, they will not be degraded. In the areas without purification plants (and that relates to most of planet!) silicones land in the lakes and the rivers where they will not be broken up, and one is still unaware of which could be the consequences about it on the human beings, the flora and fauna.
Acrylates
A shampoo and a cream should not be too liquid. So that a cosmetic product has the consistency to which we are accustomed, inflating agents are used. Whereas one could use natural substances like the alginic acid, the starch, or bentonite of mineral origin, conventional cosmetic industry made the choice of acrylates, polluting substances. It is true that the inflating agents natural have sometimes the disadvantage (in surdose) of forming a film on the skin, which is removed nevertheless easily while rubbing. Acrylates do not have this disadvantage, but present very an other disadvantage: they can stop the pores of the skin.
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