Natural plant oils versus esterified oils
If you replace in your kitchen an olive oil of quality by an oil “of natural origin” obtained starting from a reaction with other components, is what you would be of opinion that this oil contains the same food values as the pure olive oil? The answer is undoubtedly `not' and that rightly. If one applies this example to the cosmetic bio, that would bring us to the following question; Is what esterified oils, - which are employed more and more in cosmetic bio-, are just as easily, even effective, that genuine plant oils?
At which point the oils contained in a product are natural? In the formulations of natural cosmetics, one notes some differences. Pure, esterified plant oil - as many products show it, esterified oils were promoted by a certain number of manufacturers to the principal raw material row - and that with the plant oil detriment authentic.
One recognizes the oils esterified under terms INCI, such as for example:
• Caprylic Capric Triglyceride
• Coconut Caprylate Caprate
• Oleyl Erucate
• Oleyl Linoleate
• Decyl Oleate
Also belong to this group of composed of a slightly different chemical structure such as for example ether.
• Dicaprylyl Ether
Which are the arguments against esterified oils?
Esterified oils are - in one way or another - of natural origin but differ basically from purely natural plant oils in the sense that they result from the chemistry of the fatty-acids. Plant oils are the starting point of these oils belonging to the group of triglycerides, which means that three fatty-acids are related to a unit of glycerol (glycerin). The glycerol is a polyol, a triple alcohol to which three fatty-acids can bind.
Consequently, plant oils can be duplicated (out of glycerol and fatty-acids). Such a separation is obtained using a caustic detergent like potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. Once duplicated, the glycerol and the fatty-acids enter immediately in reaction with the detergent to form sodic or potassic salts corresponding fatty-acids. Thus one obtains the soaps, according to a basic process called saponification.
Esterified oils are, they also, the result of the unfolding of an plant oil. I.e. the various fatty-acids are used, that one combines with glycerol or other alcohols to obtain new connections having different properties.
Estérifées oils are the product of a reaction between fatty-acids (of the acids firm and waxy with longer chains, such as for example the stearic acid, the oleic acid, palmitic acid etc) and of alcohols (of fatty alcohols or polyols like glycerol). These oils can on the other hand also contain substances resulting from petrochemistry, as it is the case for Isopropyl Palmitate.
Which are the arguments in favor of genuine plant oils?
On the one hand, plant oils were always a pillar of the natural cosmetics as a principal ingredient of the base. And due: each true plant oil constitutes in oneself a mixture of active agents complexes and specific.
||In addition, if esterified oils are natural, they are not for all that authentic “products of nature”. Why the consumers who attach importance to a salad oil of very first mettentils quality the price and choisissentils a virgin olive oil? Because only a genuine oil can act on health. In the same way, to profit from all the virtues of an apple, should be crunched the whole apple. A fruit broken up and associated with other ingredients would not be any more the apple of origin. The same applies to esterified oils.
Esterified oils are less “rich” that genuine plant oils.
That they are secondary components of plants or vitamins, of share their composition esterified oils are considerably poorer than genuine plant oils. They miss important components of active matters and they do not offer the active matter cotenue combination in the genuine plant oil employed in its entirety.
The partisans of esterified oils advance that for the creams, they only make it possible to obtain a consistency leaving on the skin a feeling very close to that which get the conventional products. And they assert that certain consumers complain about the creams containing the usual proportion of genuine plant oils because they less soft, creamy or light. With esterified oils, one can indeed obtain a feeling of care for the skin which one obtains habituellemt that with silicone oils.
Is what this effect justifies their use? I do not think it. In the field of the natural cosmetics, it must exist other means well that the use of oils esterified to try to improve the feeling which the creams produce on the skin. One could for example vary the combination of oils (jojoba, oil of core, oil seeds) or test others of them.
Which is the position of Ecocert and the BDIH?
With regard to the use of the oils esterified in cosmetic natural and bio, positions of Ecocert and divergent BDIH.
• The German BDIH chose the restriction. He recommends not to exceed, in a formula of natural cosmetic, 10% of esterified substances (esterified oils or raw materials hydrogenated). In the oily phase, this rate can go up to 50% maximum. Will of the BDIH being that plant oils continue to play a central role.
• For the certifications based on the specifications Ecocert, there are no restrictions. I am for the restictions, because propensity to turn to esterified oils and to use them as principal element of the base of the natural cosmetics means consequently that one gives up a natural quality which up to now was precisely the prerogative of the only natural cosmetics on the market.