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When a cream is really Bio?

The branch of the Bio cosmetics is in full boiling: after several years of negotiations Cosmos puts a new proposal for the certification of the natural cosmetics and Bio on the table. However on the table also another file is on a new directive: NaTrue. Cosmos is resulting from an initiative of certification body, NaTrue of that of important manufacturers. Why the two files are in competition? About what is it in this fight for a European certification?

A central aspect of the current argument is the following question:
• From when a product cometic is Bio?
Which quality standards determine a Bio certification?
• Currently the market offers many products without Bio label whose quality, from a natural point of view, is quite higher than certain products which post a Bio label.

It is a situation difficult to include/understand for the consumer. A more strict schedule of conditions would deprive many cosmetic products of their Bio name.

Natural quality: comparison of 6 products

uebersicht
 
How much authentic plant oils are still contained in the certified products?
You will recognize them with the signstarstarstar.

How much Bio quality? You will find further details on the lower differences.

 

Bio cosmetics without or almost without genuine plant oils?

What is what changed in the product formulations these deux-trois last years? Authentic plant oils as the oil of hazel nut, soya, sweet almond, sunflower etc always were of the principal ingredients of a natural cream or bio. That is not any more the case for many products.
The base of a cream consists of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are connected by emulsifiers to create an emulsion. The interesting part of an emulsion, especially with regard to a natural cream or Bio, it is the oily phase.
• With regard to quality and the effectiveness, the fame of the natural cosmetics and Bio rest above all on the richness and the potential of authentic plant oils. And this for good reasons since any genuine plant oil offers a cocktail of invaluable active ingredients and has its own virtues to look after, regenerate and protect the skin.

Esterified oils: ” Silicones of the Bio cosmetic “

Why does one less and less find plant oils authentic in many products? They were replaced by esterified oils.
• You can learn some more on the oils esterified, whose quality (effectiveness) does not have much commun run with genuine plant oils, by clicking on the miter “natural Plant oils versus esterified oils” on the left.
Esterified oils are used more and more because they can do what silicones allow in the conventional cosmetics: they are spread out easily over the skin and bring a pleasant feeling. They are not natural, in best case they are at natural base.
• It is not problematic to supplement a formula by esterified oils.
However when esterified oils are exclusively employed mainly or it cosmetic natural or Bio is deprived of its essential quality.
• Certification according to the schedule of conditions Ecocert does not impose until now any limit as for its employment.
• Certification according to the schedule of conditions BDIH limits already its employment (maximum 50% of the oily phase).

Almost not of naturalness authenticates in the oily phase,
nevertheless is a Bio certification - how possible?

It is especially the aqueous phase which allows it. The principal ingredient in a normal cream it is water. When in the place of water one uses for example a floral water resulting from the distillation of Bio plants, this water is regarded as a Bio component in the schedule of conditions of Ecocert certification. Is this justified?
• De facto a floral water primarily consists of water. Water can be 100% natural but cannot be Bio.
With the increase in the use of esterified oils true natural quality and Bio of many products continue to decrease.
• Is it necessary to remain about it there? Don't we need a better definition of Bio quality?

What do you wait of a Bio cream?

As show it the following examples the manufacturers of certified cosmetics differently use the margins of mobility which they enjoy in this moment.
• By comparing products certified on the basis of schedule of conditions of Ecocert, one notices that the differences are large: products containing a very good high proportion of authentic plant oils and butters are found vis-a-vis products in which these ingredients are not used almost any more.
By the observation of the following products I wish to open a discussion on qualities which can be classified in Bio or not.
• For more legibility, only genuine plant oils and vegetable ingredients, as the butters, contained in the oily phase of the following examples were marked par. starstarstar
Most important is to note if they are at the beginning or the end of the list INCI: if they are located in bottom produces it in contains little, if they are located in top they belong to the principal ingredients.
• The extracts of plants are indicated in italic.
Esterified oils are underlined.
• Essential oils being according to the products either integrated in the perfumes or separately listed, they are not taken into account here.

THEMIS: Care of night
Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter
INCI
Magnifera Indica (Mango) Extract*
  Aqua
  Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (esterified oil)
  Coconut Caprylate Caprate (esterified oil)
  Glycerin
  Microrystalline Cellulose
  Gum cellulose
  Stearic Acid
  Cetearyl Alcohol
starstarstar Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*
  4 essential oils (bergamot, clove, lavender, orange)
  Glyceryl Stearate SE
  Dipalmitoyyl Hydroxyproline
  Tocopherol
  Xanthan Gum
  Dehydroacetic Acid
  Benzyl Alcohol
  Oil components essential (Benzyl Alcohol, Limonene, Linalool, Eugenol, Coumarin, Citral)
*ingrédients resulting from the organic farming
 
THEMIS
failurefailure My appreciation of the oily phase: insufficient for a cosmetic bio.

” Fine and invaluable Cream, the Care of THEMIS night prevents the signs of the age thanks to the ancestral virtues of the shea butter “, can one read on packing. But where is the shea butter?
• The shea butter is located only at the 10th place of list INCI: that means that the product contains only very little of it. Moreover, this shea butter is the only authentic natural ingredient of the oily phase. Oils majority, in 3rd and 4th place of list INCI, are two esterified oils. There is no authentic plant oil in this product.
• ” 73,6% of the total of the ingredients result from the organic farming “, can one read on packing. In the actual facts such a figure wants nothing to say, as one can judge oneself of it, this product contains only 2 Bio ingredients: a small percentage of shea butter and an extract containing much water.
Conclusion: with only two Bio ingredients, - a shea butter little and an extract -, this product is classified like Bio.

 Natural ingredient authenticates oily phase
• Butter shea tree (in 10th position)
 2 ingredients BIO
• Mango extract • Butter shea tree

 

Logona: Age Protection Creams of night
Certification: Controlled natural Cosmetic BDIH
INCI
  Aqua (Toilets)
  Alcohol*
starstarstar Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil*
  Glycerin
starstarstar Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil* Fruit
starstarstar Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
  Squalane
starstarstar Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea To ridge) *
  Palmitic Acid
  Stearic Acid
  Cetearyl Alcohol
starstarstar Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil*
  Cetyl Alcohol
  Tocopheryl Acetate
  Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (esterified oil)
  Xanthan Gum
  Hydrogenated Lecithin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract*
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Cafeine
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
  Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
  Perfume (Essential Oil)
  Tocopherol
  Sodium Hydroxide
  Essential oil components: Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, Coumarin
* ingredients resulting from the Organic farming
 
Logona
failurefailurefailure My appreciation of the oily phase: very well.

Why? That is seen with the first glance.
• The oily phase of this product contains 4 authentic plant oils more of the shea butter: in 3rd position of the soya oil, in 5th of the olive oil, in 6th of the oil of jojoba, in 8th of the shea butter, in 12th of the oil of argan.
• Authentic plant oils and the shea butter represent the lions share of the oily phase. The oil esterified in minor amount (in the 15th place of list INCI) is only one “agent facilitator “. Authentic plant oils play a main role.
• Other authentic natural ingredients: 5 extracts of plants (will aloé-véra, bamboo, cafeine, myrrh Indian, will samphira).
Conclusion: this product shows that even without Bio label a cream can be of the first bio quality. 4 plant oils, the butter shea and the extract of will aloé-véra result from the organic farming.

 Authentic natural ingredients of the oily phase
• Soya oil (in 3rd position) • Olive oil (in 5th position) • Oil jojoba (in 6th) • Butter shea tree (in 8th) • Oil argan (in 12th)
 7 ingredients BIO
• Soya oil • Olive oil • Oil jojoba • Butter shea tree • Oil argan • Bio alcohol • Extracted from will aloe-vera

 

Melvita: Quintessential balsam bio
Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter
INCI
  Aqua (Toilets)
  Glycerin
starstarstar Corylus Avellana (Nut) Seed Oil*
  Dicaprylyl Ether (esterified oil)
starstarstar Rosa Moschata Oil Seed Oil*
starstarstar Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*
  Maltrodextrin
  Arachidyl Alcohol
  Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (esterified oil)
  Octyldodecanol (esterified oil)
  Perfume (Fragance)
  Behenyl Alcohol
  Cera Alba (Beeswax)
  Limonene
  Glyceryl Dibehenate
  Oleic/Linoleic/Linolic Polyglycerides
  Oryza Sativa Hull Powder (Oryza Sativa (rice) Hull Powder)
  Arachidyl Glucoside
  Sodium Benzoate
  Tribehenin
  Sclerotim Gum
  Xanthan Gum
  Stearic Acid
  Tocopherol
  Galactaric Acid
  Glyceryl Behenate
The CAMELIA Sinensis Extract (the CAMELIA Sinensis Leaf Extract)
  Sodium Hydroxide
Hordeum Vulgare Extract*
  Sorbate potassium
Centella Asiatica Extract
  Citric Acid
  Essential oil components: Linalool, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol, Farnesol)
* ingredients resulting from the Organic farming
 
Melvita
failurefailure My appreciation of the oily phase: well.

This product is a fluid, therefore a formula light and hydrating, with the result that after water the major ingredient is the glycerin.
• Authentic plant oils contained are: in 3rd position of list INCI the hazel nut oil, in 5th position the oil of rose tree muscatel, in 6th position the oil of jojoba.
• There are three esterified oils. One (Dicaprylyl Ether) positions already in 4th position of list INCI. In this product esterified oils do not certainly play the first part but are however quite present. For this reason I give a good instead of very well.
• The extracts contained are: green extract of the, extracted from barley and hydrocotyle.
Conclusion: in spite of the presence of esterified oils this product deserves its Bio quality by the presence of a good proportion of authentic plant oils resulting from the organic farming.

 Authentic natural ingredients of the oily phase
• Oil hazel nuts (in 3rd position) • Oil rose tree muscatel (in 5th position) • Oil jojoba (in 6th position)
 4 ingredients BIO
• Oil hazel nuts (in 3rd position) • Oil rose tree muscatel (in 5th position) • Oil jojoba (in 6th position) • Hordeum Vulgare Extract

 

Bio crossroads: Cream of Day hydrating in Aloé Vera bio and the oil of argan bio
Certification: Ecocert
INCI
  Aqua (Toilets)
  Isopropyl Palmitate (esterified oil)
  In cosmetic natural and bio badbad
  Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (esterified oil)
Aloe Barbadensis Gel*
  Glycerin
  Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
  Cetyl Babassuate
  Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
  Stearyl Alcohol
starstarstar Argania Spinosa Oil*
  Benzyl Alcohol
  Xanthan Gum
  Aroma
  Phytic Acid
  Tocopherol
starstarstar Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
  Sodium Hydroxide
  Essential oil components: Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Farnesol, Linalool
* ingredients resulting from the Organic farming
 
Bio crossroads
failurefailurefailure My appreciation of the oily phase: insufficient.

• The first authentic plant oil of this cream is located well low in the list: in 10th position of list INCI (the oil of argan). It is located between the stearyl alcohol and the benzyl alcohol in list INCI. The stearyl alcohol is employed up to 2% in general. The benzyl alcohol can be used as a conservative only to a total value of 1% maximum. One can deduce from it that the oil of argan was employed to a total value of 1% to 2%. All in bottom one still finds a sunflower oil suspicion (heliantus annuus seed oil).
• It is the isopropyl palmitate (see framed) which represents the oily majority (in second place in list INCI). My opinion: the isopropyl palmitate does not have its natural place in cosmetic and bio. This opinion is not only mine: it appears more and more clearly that it will not be authorized any more during a European harmonization.
Conclusion: the proportion of ingredients bio is indicated on packing: 10% of the total of the ingredients result from the organic farming. Thus the manufacturer fills the requirements of certification Bio d' Ecocert.
• According to a mathematical calculation simple that means: if 10% are Bio, 90% are not Bio. The current rules are thus but that have will to last?

 Authentic natural ingredients of the oily phase
• Oil argan (in 10th position) • Sunflower oil (in 16th position)
 2 ingredients BIO
• Aloe Barbadensis Freezing • Oil argan

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  Isopropyl Palmitate
If one studies the components usually present on the market, one realizes that the isopropyl palmitate is an esterified oil which is partly a petrochemical derivative and was esterified with a seed oil of cabbage tree. Theoretically this component could also be made up differently chemically but that is not identifiable for the consumer. This oil, - from which it is not excluded that it contains part of derivative petrochemical -, should be able to be found in the products of cosmetic natural and Bio? With my opinion, not. This component is usually not used besides in cosmetic natural and Bio. That makes one moment that I look of almost the products of French manufacturers of cosmetic natural and Bio. Until now none products contained isopropyl palmitate. The schedule of conditions “cosmetic controlled naturalness” of the BDIH never authorized besides and still does not authorize the use of the isopropyl palmitate.
 
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Gamarde: Pressing Care Day and Night
Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter
INCI
  Toilets (Aqua)
starstarstar Coryllus Avellana (Hazel Seed) Nut Oil*
starstarstar Eleais Guineensis (Palm Kernel Oil*
  Cetearyl Alcohol
  Cetearyl Glucoside
starstarstar Argania Spinosa (Argan Kernel) Oil*
starstarstar Ricinus Communis (Seed Beaver) Oil
starstarstar Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*
  7 essential oils (bois de rose, géranium, palmarosa, lavender, cypress, thyme, bitter orange)
starstarstar Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil
  Inositol
  Citric Acid
  Complex Chlorophyllin-magnesium
  Essential oil components (Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Citronellal, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool).
* ingredients resulting from the Organic farming
 
Gamarde
failurefailurefailure My appreciation of the oily phase: very well.

Why? That is seen with the first glance.
• The major ingredients of the oily phase are authentic plant oils: oils of hazel nut and seed of cabbage tree in 2nd and 3rd position of the list.
• With that are added in 6th, 7th and 8th position three other plant oils: the oil of argan, ricinus, sunflower and Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil (starting from corn germs).
Conclusion: for this product Bio quality rests on the great proportion of authentic plant oils resulting from the organic farming.

 Authentic natural ingredients of the oily phase
• Oil hazel nut (in 2nd position) • Oil of seed of cabbage tree (in 3rd position) • Oil argan (in 6th position) • Castor oil (in 7th position) • Sunflower oil (in 8th position) • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil (starting from corn germs)
 4 ingredients BIO
• Oil hazel nut • Oil of seed of cabbage tree • Oil argan • Sunflower oil

 

Coslys: Cream face skin dries
Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter
INCI
  Aqua
  Decyl Oleate (esterified oil)
  Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Water*
  Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (esterified oil)
  Glyceryl Stearate SE
  Glyceryl Stearate
  Glycerin
  Antemis Nobilis Flower Water*
starstarstar Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil*
  Cetearyl Alcohol
  Perfume
  Sodium PCA
starstarstar Butyrospermum Parkii*
  Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides
Lilium Candidum Extract
  Cetyl Palmitate
  Cocoglycerides
  Xanthan Gum
  Bisabolol
Glycine Soya
  Tocopherol
  Sodium Benzoate
  Sorbate potassium
  Essential oil components (Citral, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene, Linalool)
*ingrédients resulting from the organic farming
Incis source: www.aromathologie.com
 
Coslys
failurefailure My appreciation of the oily phase: not sufficient for a cosmetic bio.

My appreciation for the oily phase: not very satisfactory for a product cosmetic bio
The oily phase of this product contains only one small portion of true vegetable components.
• An plant oil authenticates (oil of apricot core) is only in 9th position of list INCI. With that a little shea butter is added (in 13th position of list INCI). The base of this product, (a qualitative base is essential for the effectiveness of a product) contains, in quantity, very few true vegetable components.
• Other true vegetable components: 2 extracts of plants (extracted from lily and extract of soya).
Conclusion: Two floral water is the main components bio in this product. Certification bio thus is mainly obtained thanks to the aqueous phase and not starting from authentic and effective plant oils.

 Authentic natural ingredients of the oily phase
• Oil apricot core (in 9th position) • Butter shea tree (in 13th position)
 4 ingredients BIO
• Floral water of queen of the meadows • Floral water of camomile • Oil apricot core • Butter shea tree
 
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