When a cream is really Bio?
The branch of the Bio cosmetics is in full boiling: after several years of negotiations Cosmos puts a new proposal for the certification of the natural cosmetics and Bio on the table. However on the table also another file is on a new directive: NaTrue. Cosmos is resulting from an initiative of certification body, NaTrue of that of important manufacturers. Why the two files are in competition? About what is it in this fight for a European certification?
A central aspect of the current argument is the following question: • From when a product cometic is Bio? Which quality standards determine a Bio certification? • Currently the market offers many products without Bio label whose quality, from a natural point of view, is quite higher than certain products which post a Bio label.
It is a situation difficult to include/understand for the consumer. A more strict schedule of conditions would deprive many cosmetic products of their Bio name.
Natural quality: comparison of 6 products
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How much authentic plant oils are still contained in the certified products? You will recognize them with the sign    .
How much Bio quality? You will find further details on the lower differences. |
Bio cosmetics without or almost without genuine plant oils?
What is what changed in the product formulations these deux-trois last years? Authentic plant oils as the oil of hazel nut, soya, sweet almond, sunflower etc always were of the principal ingredients of a natural cream or bio. That is not any more the case for many products. The base of a cream consists of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are connected by emulsifiers to create an emulsion. The interesting part of an emulsion, especially with regard to a natural cream or Bio, it is the oily phase. • With regard to quality and the effectiveness, the fame of the natural cosmetics and Bio rest above all on the richness and the potential of authentic plant oils. And this for good reasons since any genuine plant oil offers a cocktail of invaluable active ingredients and has its own virtues to look after, regenerate and protect the skin.
Esterified oils: ” Silicones of the Bio cosmetic “
Why does one less and less find plant oils authentic in many products? They were replaced by esterified oils. • You can learn some more on the oils esterified, whose quality (effectiveness) does not have much commun run with genuine plant oils, by clicking on the miter “natural Plant oils versus esterified oils” on the left. Esterified oils are used more and more because they can do what silicones allow in the conventional cosmetics: they are spread out easily over the skin and bring a pleasant feeling. They are not natural, in best case they are at natural base. • It is not problematic to supplement a formula by esterified oils. However when esterified oils are exclusively employed mainly or it cosmetic natural or Bio is deprived of its essential quality. • Certification according to the schedule of conditions Ecocert does not impose until now any limit as for its employment. • Certification according to the schedule of conditions BDIH limits already its employment (maximum 50% of the oily phase).
Almost not of naturalness authenticates in the oily phase, nevertheless is a Bio certification - how possible?
It is especially the aqueous phase which allows it. The principal ingredient in a normal cream it is water. When in the place of water one uses for example a floral water resulting from the distillation of Bio plants, this water is regarded as a Bio component in the schedule of conditions of Ecocert certification. Is this justified? • De facto a floral water primarily consists of water. Water can be 100% natural but cannot be Bio. With the increase in the use of esterified oils true natural quality and Bio of many products continue to decrease. • Is it necessary to remain about it there? Don't we need a better definition of Bio quality?
What do you wait of a Bio cream?
As show it the following examples the manufacturers of certified cosmetics differently use the margins of mobility which they enjoy in this moment. • By comparing products certified on the basis of schedule of conditions of Ecocert, one notices that the differences are large: products containing a very good high proportion of authentic plant oils and butters are found vis-a-vis products in which these ingredients are not used almost any more. By the observation of the following products I wish to open a discussion on qualities which can be classified in Bio or not. • For more legibility, only genuine plant oils and vegetable ingredients, as the butters, contained in the oily phase of the following examples were marked par.   Most important is to note if they are at the beginning or the end of the list INCI: if they are located in bottom produces it in contains little, if they are located in top they belong to the principal ingredients. • The extracts of plants are indicated in italic. • Esterified oils are underlined. • Essential oils being according to the products either integrated in the perfumes or separately listed, they are not taken into account here.
THEMIS: Care of night Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter |
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| Magnifera Indica (Mango) Extract* |
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Aqua |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (esterified oil) |
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Coconut Caprylate Caprate (esterified oil) |
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Glycerin |
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Microrystalline Cellulose |
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Gum cellulose |
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Stearic Acid |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter* |
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4 essential oils (bergamot, clove, lavender, orange) |
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Glyceryl Stearate SE |
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Dipalmitoyyl Hydroxyproline |
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Tocopherol |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Dehydroacetic Acid |
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Benzyl Alcohol |
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Oil components essential (Benzyl Alcohol, Limonene, Linalool, Eugenol, Coumarin, Citral) |
| *ingrédients resulting from the organic farming |
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My appreciation of the oily phase: insufficient for a cosmetic bio. |
” Fine and invaluable Cream, the Care of THEMIS night prevents the signs of the age thanks to the ancestral virtues of the shea butter “, can one read on packing. But where is the shea butter? • The shea butter is located only at the 10th place of list INCI: that means that the product contains only very little of it. Moreover, this shea butter is the only authentic natural ingredient of the oily phase. Oils majority, in 3rd and 4th place of list INCI, are two esterified oils. There is no authentic plant oil in this product. • ” 73,6% of the total of the ingredients result from the organic farming “, can one read on packing. In the actual facts such a figure wants nothing to say, as one can judge oneself of it, this product contains only 2 Bio ingredients: a small percentage of shea butter and an extract containing much water. Conclusion: with only two Bio ingredients, - a shea butter little and an extract -, this product is classified like Bio. |
| Natural ingredient authenticates oily phase |
| • Butter shea tree (in 10th position) |
| 2 ingredients BIO |
| • Mango extract • Butter shea tree |
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Logona: Age Protection Creams of night Certification: Controlled natural Cosmetic BDIH |
| INCI |
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Aqua (Toilets) |
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Alcohol* |
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Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil* |
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Glycerin |
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Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil* Fruit |
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Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil* |
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Squalane |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea To ridge) * |
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Palmitic Acid |
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Stearic Acid |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil* |
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Cetyl Alcohol |
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Tocopheryl Acetate |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (esterified oil) |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Hydrogenated Lecithin |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract* |
| Bambusa Vulgaris Extract |
| Cafeine |
| Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract |
| Crithmum Maritimum Extract |
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Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil |
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Perfume (Essential Oil) |
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Tocopherol |
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Sodium Hydroxide |
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Essential oil components: Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Geraniol, Coumarin |
| * ingredients resulting from the Organic farming |
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Melvita: Quintessential balsam bio Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter |
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Bio crossroads: Cream of Day hydrating in Aloé Vera bio and the oil of argan bio Certification: Ecocert |
| INCI |
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Aqua (Toilets) |
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Isopropyl Palmitate (esterified oil) |
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In cosmetic natural and bio |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (esterified oil) |
| Aloe Barbadensis Gel* |
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Glycerin |
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Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate |
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Cetyl Babassuate |
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Glyceryl Stearate Citrate |
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Stearyl Alcohol |
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Argania Spinosa Oil* |
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Benzyl Alcohol |
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Xanthan Gum |
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Aroma |
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Phytic Acid |
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Tocopherol |
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Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil |
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Sodium Hydroxide |
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Essential oil components: Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Farnesol, Linalool |
| * ingredients resulting from the Organic farming |
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Isopropyl Palmitate If one studies the components usually present on the market, one realizes that the isopropyl palmitate is an esterified oil which is partly a petrochemical derivative and was esterified with a seed oil of cabbage tree. Theoretically this component could also be made up differently chemically but that is not identifiable for the consumer. This oil, - from which it is not excluded that it contains part of derivative petrochemical -, should be able to be found in the products of cosmetic natural and Bio? With my opinion, not. This component is usually not used besides in cosmetic natural and Bio. That makes one moment that I look of almost the products of French manufacturers of cosmetic natural and Bio. Until now none products contained isopropyl palmitate. The schedule of conditions “cosmetic controlled naturalness” of the BDIH never authorized besides and still does not authorize the use of the isopropyl palmitate. |
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Gamarde: Pressing Care Day and Night Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter |
| INCI |
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Toilets (Aqua) |
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Coryllus Avellana (Hazel Seed) Nut Oil* |
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Eleais Guineensis (Palm Kernel Oil* |
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Cetearyl Alcohol |
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Cetearyl Glucoside |
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Argania Spinosa (Argan Kernel) Oil* |
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Ricinus Communis (Seed Beaver) Oil |
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Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* |
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7 essential oils (bois de rose, géranium, palmarosa, lavender, cypress, thyme, bitter orange) |
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Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil |
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Inositol |
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Citric Acid |
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Complex Chlorophyllin-magnesium |
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Essential oil components (Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Citronellal, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool). |
| * ingredients resulting from the Organic farming |
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Coslys: Cream face skin dries Certification: Cosmetic Bio Cosmebio Charter |
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